Traversing the Great Himalayan range through a road that is open only for a narrow corridor of time - the road to Leh, Ladakh is more phenomenal than the place itself.
Planning
The season in Ladakh stretches from the middle of June to the end of September. The Manali to Leh road opens in the beginning of June as the Border Road Organisation (BRO) start snow clearance at the passes. At the beginning of the season the roads are in a miserable state of as BRO road gangs slowly repair bad sections. The road is at its best during August and September.
Clothing
Remember that riding in 10 degrees C is equal to an effective temperature of 6 degrees, due to the wind chill. Dress in layers.
Woolen long underwear is best protection against cold. On this a t shirt covered with a fleece and a waterproof outer is more than adequate protection.
Preparing your bike
Take Murphy's Law seriously and get your bike thoroughly checked and rectify or replace anything that has the slightest possibility of packing up in the middle of nowhere.
Check tubes, cables, wiring and other easily worn parts for wear and take along some essential spares.
A full tool kit is mandatory. Also pack in a spare tube and a foot-pump if possible.
You’ll have to carry fuel, because even if your bike has the range to make the 380km stretch that is devoid of any fuel pump, the steep roads and high altitude will drop its average.
It makes good sense to pack an instant puncture repair can. These are available at a few dealers and select petrol pumps. They inflate your tyre and seal the puncture temporarily for about 100kms. A real asset if you are punctured out on a high mountain pass with no energy to change the tyre.
The Ride
From Manali, a short distance after you cross the bridge over the Beas you get your first sight of the Himalayan snows as the road goes past Vashisht and starts the ascend to the Rohtang pass. The conifers give way to grasslands as the altitude increases. Rohtang literally means "pile of dead bodies" which tells about how treacherous the pass can be if you are caught unawares during a sudden weather changes.
The road then descends into the Chandra Valley and goes past Koksar. The next few hours drive are fantastic and passengers seated on the left will have a visual feast as road runs across the northern slopes past the first of the Buddhist settlements hemmed in by towering peaks and hanging glaciers. Tandi is where the last fuel station is and the road veers north along the Bhaga valley to Keylong.
The road from Keylong to Sarchu runs past Darcha which is a collection of stone huts. From Darcha the road climbs steadily north-east across mountainsides of deep red and pale green spree. The Baralacha pass comes up after Darcha and literally means four-roads. The road to and from Baralacha is miserable and the flat plain of Sarchu is a welcome relief.
The next days drive has some even more breathtaking views in store for you as you come across the Pashima herdsmen tending their sheep and find yaks grazing in the pastures on the approach to the ascend of the Tanglang Pass.
After the final pass the home run into Leh is pretty straightforward.
Night Stay At Sarchu
The drive from Manali to Leh is usually done over two days. The state border between HP and J & K closes at 4.00pm so it makes sense to take the night halt just before crossing it at Sarchu and then making it comfortably to Leh the next day.
A few kilometers after you descent from the Baralacha La the first of the tented accomodation sites come into view. They are spread over a distance of around 10kms and the prices range from Rs 180 to Rs 600 per person (including meals) depending on the camp. Sites run by Rashpian and Amtrex have fancy tents and toilets but are pricy. The Himachal Tourism Tents are the last of the lot, just before the Sarchu check post. They offer the best value, though the tents are 4 man tents and you might have to share it with a stranger.
If for some reason you cannot make it till Sarchu before sundown, you can seek accomodation in the tea houses at Jispa.
Leh
Tucked away in the eastern corner of Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh's capital city Leh is definitely difficult to get to. The effort is well worth it though.
Ladakh is a land that envelops you. You don't go there to do the circuit and see the sights. Wandering aimlessly, munching a ripe apple or reading a book under a tree while a bonny child peeps at you and shyly smiles and greeting all and sundry with a hearty "Juley" are all ingredients to doing Ladakh.
Atleast 5 days to a week is what you need to do Leh and its surrounding areas justice.
Leh market comes alive during the evening as curio shops and handcraft emporiums light up their shop windows. Sneaker clad lamas rub shoulders with bearded Baltis. One can see eldery Tibetan refugees whirring prayer wheels as they walk down the main Market Street awash with colour from the fruits and vegetables laid out to sell by women from surrounding villages.
In and Around Leh
About Permits
Everyone, except Ladakhis and Zansakris need permits to visit inner line areas like the Nubra Valley and the Pangong Tso. The procedure to get a permit is to apply at the District Magistrate's Office that is behind the polo ground. The simpler and more practical procedure is to pay a travel agent Rs. 100 per person and give him a list of places you want to visit and he will obtain the permits within a day. The office is usually closed on Sundays.
Leh
Hotels in Leh are expensive and heavily booked from mid June to end September. It is best to book in advance.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
At heights of over 4000m everyone feels mild effects of the thin air and this is generally known as AMS. AMS is caused by the fact that at these altitudes there is less oxygen and lower atmospheric pressure. The most common symptoms are headaches, nausea, loss of appetite and breathlessness. AMS can also have effects like causing the brain to swell and the lungs filling with water, but these symptoms are rare. The only cure is to acclimatize and for this its essential not ascend too fast. Drink a lot of water, protect your skin from the sun and avoid smoking and alcohol. The locals believe that eating a little garlic with your food helps too.
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